Red, Green, or Christmas? That Is the Question

by Willamarie MooreWe’ve all heard the question being asked at local restaurants. But for visitors or new arrivals, the choice being offered is not necessarily obvious. During one of my first restaurant outings after moving here, nowhere near the holidays, I was ordering huevos rancheros and needed my local friend to translate for me. Little did I know—did you?—that “Red or green?” is actually the official state question (as passed by the New Mexico State Legislature in 1999), nor that the official answer is, “Red andgreen, or Christmas.”At this time of year, chile peppers are used as much for decoration as for culinary purposes. Ristras—in their classic hanging string form as well as in the shape of holiday wreaths—are displayed on doors, arches, and windows as symbols of festive, welcoming hospitality. Traditionally they are said to bring good luck and health.Integral to the state’s cuisine and iconic in Southwest décor, the pepper now adorns cars on the relatively new black license plates that declare us “Chile Capital of the World.” Indeed, New Mexico is the largest producer of the chile pepper in the United States; in 2017 we generated more than 62,000 tons, valued at over $44 million. Even with annual declines since peak production in 2005, chile is still one of the biggest cash crops in the state.With internal, edible seeds, chiles are technically fruits, though they’re eaten as vegetables, usually in sauces. The terms “green” and “red” refer not to different pepper varieties but to when the peppers are harvested. Green chile is harvested earlier. Its flavor profile tends to be brighter than that of red chile, which has ripened and offers sweeter, more mellow tones, though it can still have bite. Green chile is typically roasted and chopped for use in sauces, while red chile is dried (often in ristras) before being ground into a powder, resulting in a deep, smoky flavor.The almost addictive draw of chile comes from capsaicin, a chemical compound that makes peppers register in the mouth as “hot.” The higher the capsaicin content, the stronger the signal to our brains that we’re being subjected to immense heat, measured in Scoville Heat Units (SHU). To counter this stress, our brains secrete pain-relieving endorphins and pleasure-providing dopamine. This cocktail of neurotransmitters results in a sense of euphoria, and so we want more, despite the burn.The genus Capsicumranges from sweet bell peppers to the current record-holder for heat, the “Carolina Reaper,” which peaks at 2.2 million SHU. Most commercial New Mexican varieties range from 800 to 1,400 SHU, though at least one rates as high as 7,000 SHU. Capsaicin is most concentrated in the membranes surrounding the pepper’s seeds and extending through the interior veins. If you prefer your sauce less than incendiary, remove the seeds and as much of the veins as you can before cooking.Its cheerful appearance, complex flavors, and giddy effects make chile good for the soul. But it’s good for the body too. Rich in Vitamins A and C, it’s also a significant source of iron, thiamine, and magnesium. Red chile is full of carotenoids, essential for eye health. And capsaicin is used for various medicinal purposes, for instance in patches to relieve muscle aches and pains.So as you prepare for the holiday season, why not do so in classic New Mexico style, by making your own ristras or chile sauce? And while you’re creating, make sure to have the official New Mexico chile song, Chile Verde Rock, playing in the background.The Origins of New Mexican ChileCapsicumoriginated near Bolivia and spread via birds throughout South and Central America. It’s believed that humans began cultivating peppers about 15,000 years ago. More than four hundred years ago, chile pepper seeds made their way to northern New Mexico. Some records indicate they were brought by Spanish colonists, though pre-Columbian trade routes suggest they may have arrived earlier.Particular strains were cultivated by individual Pueblo and Hispanic communities, who saved the seeds from ripened crops and passed them on through generations. These varieties, highly specific to particular geographical locations, came to be known as landrace chiles. Prized by chile enthusiasts for their flavor and heat, they are still cultivated today. The Chimayó landrace is probably the most well-known, though there are many others.What most people think of as “New Mexican chile” was developed in the late 19th century by horticulturalist Fabián García, at New Mexico State University. Dr. García began hybridizing peppers being grown in home gardens in the Las Cruces area. He was seeking a chile that would be relatively mild and uniform, palatable to Anglos and reliable enough for commercial use. In 1913 Dr. García released “New Mexico No. 9,” a new pod type—long, green, and fleshy, with moderate spice and an earthy flavor—and an industry was born.Major commercial production is still located in the southern parts of the state, most famously in and around Hatch. The generic name “Hatch” refers to any variety grown in that region, though it is sometimes misleadingly used to describe chile grown elsewhere. For all questions relating to chile, visit NMSU’s Chile Pepper Institute.Resources:NMSU,Chile Peppers 101, by Justin BannisterNMSU,Using Chile to Make Ristras and Chile Sauce, by Danise Coon and Stephanie Walker